2008-7-31 16:53 babeblue
Gaultier

还记得《加勒比海盗》中那个古灵精怪的Jack船长么?发布会一开场,Gaultier就成功营造了加勒比的神秘气氛:现场烟雾缭绕,灯光闪烁,一个头戴阔边帽、身着扭结黑色衬衣、脚蹬短马靴的女孩信步走上T型台——这活脱脱就是一个妖媚的女海盗。和“黑珍珠号”一样,Gaultier的船也“环游”了世界各地——这里有着来自北美洲海滩的迷彩装,军装风格的纺锤扣流苏肩章的背心、制服和无袖连衣裙;还有来自非洲的狩猎夹克和五彩针织裙;也有来自法国的水手衫——这一次设计师并没有采用招牌式的蓝白条纹,而是缀上了金属珠片。

  海盗的创意使得钟爱层叠设计的Gaultier大展拳脚。他将条纹胸衣配上紧扎的皮带,分别搭配上轻巧的开衫、柔软的泡泡裤或者怪异off-kilter风格的不对称芭蕾裙。然而,Gaultier的创意却不仅于此:流苏围巾、无边便帽、Lily Donaldson叼着的烟斗、手枪柄雨伞……这些精心设计的配件更让人体会到设计师的良苦用心。在最后的婚纱秀上,Gaultier一反往常的风格,波希米亚的钩针、雕孔绣花花边和淡黄色的薄纱等元素纷纷登场,成了一个吉普赛新娘的派对。如果不进行一点低调处理,这些婚纱似乎和婚礼殿堂的肃穆气氛不太登对,不过没关系,只要将这些分解开来,加些实用的元素,海盗的传说一样能激动人心!


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2008-7-31 16:54 babeblue
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